Intensive 1% Retinol Serum

LIPOSOMAL RETINOL COMPLEX

Silybum Marianum

Silybum marianum, a milk thistle extract is a potent source of flavonolignans have been found to exhibit anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity, two enzymes which can destroy the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Inhibition of these could help to protect the skin and prolong the appearance of a more youthful glow.

Link: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30875758/

Obtained from milk thistle, an original plant for cosmetics, has the same proportions of fatty acids as the oil from which it is made.

This fatty acid forms part of the natural composition of the skin barrier. Adding extra linoleic acid reinforces and thus improves the preservation of the skin’s ideal hydration level.

The esters typically used in formulation come from saturated fatty acids, mostly from coprah and palm oil: caprylic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. These esters are not essential fatty acids and do not confer this benefit.

Directly exposed to the external environment, the epidermis, and more particularly the stratum corneum, provides a protective role against mechanical damage, dryness and trans epidermal water loss, but also a barrier function to pathogens, UV rays, etc. Indeed, consisting mainly of the corneocytes, the hydrolipidic film and a lipid cement, the stratum corneum forms a resistant and waterproof barrier.

The intercellular cement between the corneocytes is composed of lipid bilayers, which are themselves composed of free fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol arranged in a very orderly manner. The latest research has illustrated the importance of linoleic acid in ensuring the intercellular cement strength and the efficacy of the skin barrier.

The knowledge on the stratum corneum have evolved from a simple system made of two-compartment (model «brick and cement») to a system with a regulated metabolic activity related to the deeper layers of the skin.

Indeed, among the major components involved in the formation of the skin barrier, there is also the filag- grin protein, a marker of the barrier function derived from the grains of keratohyalin present in the granular layer underlying stratum corneum layer.

Lavender has a 2,500 year history from South India, North Africa and Mediterranean region.

Used by ancient “civilizations” (Phoenicians and Egyptians) for perfumes.

The Greeks, Romans and Persians added it to their bath to purify their skin.

The true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), part of the mint family, is the only type referenced in the European pharmacopeia and officially recognized as a medicinal plant for modern phytotherapy.

The essential oil is used in aromatherapy for antibacterial, healing, relaxing properties at night, bringing serenity.

The scent of lavender has been scientifically proven to be relaxing, and helping fall asleep.

Lavender is also an Ayurvedic medicinal herb.

Has been shown to help the skin produce melatonin at night to aid a better sleep.

Link: Data on file

Saccharide Isomerate

Saccharide Isomerate Complex is a 100% plant-derived carbohydrate complex, similar to that found in human skin. The molecules bind to the skin, preventing epidermal water loss, delivering immediate & long-lasting hydration for up to 72 hours. As a vegan hyaluronic acid booster, Saccharide Isomerate complex contains no animal by-products, so you can be confident that this product is cruelty-free and highly efficacious.

Saccharide Isomerate Complex is clinically proven to provide short and long-term hydration. The case study image below shows the increase in hydration to the stratum corneum after 3 hours and after 28 days, where Saccharide Isomerate Complex was applied twice per day.

The in-vivo and in-vitro studies have proven the unique binding of this Saccharide Isomerate Complex to te free amino group of lysine in keratin. After 4 weeks of continuous use, Saccharide Isomerate improves the signs of dry skin by 20%, with effects lasting long after the final application 6 days later. This binding function allows the Saccharide Isomerate Complex to connect with the top layer of the skin, locking in moisture.

Saccharide Isomerate Complex in an aqueous solution improves and strengthens the skin barrier functionas shown by the 20% reduction in trans-epidermal water loss before and after 20 successive tape strips after a 28-day application.

After 4 weeks of continuous use, Saccharide Isomerate Complex improves the signs of dry skin by 20%, with effects lasting long after the final application 6 days later.

Link: 1. International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2015, 37, 595-605

Link: 2. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016 38, 217-223

Link: 3. Data on file.

Link: 4. Data on file.

Link: 5. G.Padberg, J. Soc.Cosmetic Chemists 23, 271-279, 1972

Retinol

Retinol is a precursor of retinoic acid and is an effective anti-ageing treatment widely used in cosmetic medicine and is classed as part of the group of topical Vitamin A based drugs called retinoids. Retinoids are widely studied and have been shown to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin colour. Additional benefits include fading age spots and softening rough patches of skin. Topical application of retinol significantly affects both cellular and molecular properties of the epidermis and dermis. Tretinoin, was the first retinoid. It was used as an acne treatment in the 1970s, but researchers later discovered that it also fades actinic keratosis spots, evens pigmentation, and speeds the turnover of superficial skin cells.

Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the ageing process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocyte proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain trans epidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26578346

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/

Tocopherol

Tocopherol or Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use for more than 50 years in dermatology. It is an important ingredient in many cosmetic products. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4976416/

One of the most well-known and researched antioxidants for the body and for skin. Vitamin E occurs naturally in human skin, but can become depleted due to constant environmental exposure in the absence of sun protection. There are eight basic forms of the entire fat soluble vitamin E molecule, which are either synthetically or naturally derived. The most typical forms are d-alpha-tocopherol, dalphatocopherol acetate, dl-alpha tocopherol, and dlalpha tocopherol acetate. Research has shown that natural forms of vitamin E are more effective than their synthetic counterparts, but both definitely have antioxidant activity. Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use for more than 50 years in dermatology. It is an important ingredient in many cosmetic products. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger. Experimental studies suggest that vitamin E has photoprotective properties and is a powerful antioxidant

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4976416/