Lip Volume

ENHANCING LIP PLUMP

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Glycine Soja, known as the soybean or soya bean, is a species of legume native to East Asia. Soya beans contain many functional components including phenolic acids, flavonoids and small proteins. Flavonoids have the potential to treat rosacea, reduce inflammation and oxidative stress.

Soybean seed extract has been reported to possess the cosmeceutical and dermatological benefits such as anti- inflammatory, collagen stimulating effect, potent anti-oxidant scavenging peroxyl radicals, skin lightening effect and protection against UV radiation.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25850195

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (Licorice Root Extract)

Ingredient Claims:

Reduces tyrosinase and elastase activity for brighter and firmer looking skin	Protects the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV
Helps the skin retain moisture, skin appears fuller and more hydrated	Reduces the appearance of blemishes

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, also known as licorice root extract, is a natural plant-based ingredient that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and skincare. Here are some of the skin benefits of Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract:

Anti-inflammatory: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to soothe and calm irritated skin. This makes it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed for sensitive skin.

Brightening: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract can help to brighten the skin by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. This makes it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed to address dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Anti-aging: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract contains antioxidants that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution. This can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and prevent premature ageing.

Moisturising: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is a natural humectant, which means it can attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve the overall hydration and plumpness of the skin.

Acne-fighting: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract has been shown to have antibacterial properties that can help to reduce the growth of acne-causing bacteria on the skin.

A green ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method using glycerol/water mixtures for extraction of licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) bioactive constituents was developed in this study. The response surface method, according to the Box-Behnken design,A green ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method using glycerol/water mixtures for extraction of licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) bioactive constituents was developed in this study. The response surface method, according to the Box-Behnken design, was employed to optimize the extraction parameters: glycerol concentration (X1), temperature (X2), and the amount of herbal drug used in the production (X3). The responses were content of total phenols (TP), TP extraction efficiency (TPy) and the content of licorice characteristic constituents, glabridin (Gla) and isoliquiritigenin (Iso). Response surface analysis predicted the optimal extraction conditions for maximized amounts of TP, Tpy, Gla, and Iso. The extracts were prepared using the calculated conditions. The analysis of the selected constituents confirmed the validity of the model. Furthermore, biological activity of the extracts was tested. The results demonstrate that UAE using glycerol is a fast and efficient method for preparation of extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant activity. Furthermore, the observed notable tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of the extracts, as well as their anti-inflammatory activity, indicate the anti-aging properties of the investigated extracts. The fact that the extracts were prepared using the safe, cosmetically active solvent, glycerol, makes them suitable for direct use in specialised cosmeceutical formulations.

Produced from the roots and rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza glabra. It contains saponins, flavonoids, coumarins and triterpenoids. The polysaccharide fraction of licorice has shown remarkable immunomodulatory activity, especially by strengthening phagocytosis in the endothelial reticular system and stimulating interferon production. Glycyrrhizin has long demonstrated its strengthening action on hydrocortisone anti-inflammatory activity in rats. Other flavonoid components of licorice root, such as liquiritoside, have also shown in vitro anti-inflammatory activity.

Licorice root contains numerous bioactive natural products, many of which are potent cosmeceutical ingredients. In this work, the UAE method for preparation of licorice root bioactive extracts was optimized. The extraction was performed using mixtures of water with glycerol, a biodegradable, safe, cosmetically active solvent. The prepared extracts displayed excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating, and antioxidant activity. In addition, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of the extracts, as well as their anti-inflammatory activity, indicated excellent anti-aging properties. Such attractive array of skin-related biological activities makes glycerolic licorice extracts promising constituents of specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6826613/

Glycerin

Ingredient Claims:

Excellent moisturising properties	Enhances skin elasticity
Calms and soothes irritated skin	Promotes skin barrier function
Reduces trans epidermal water loss	Soothes hot or sunburned skin

Glycerin is a humectant which is present in all-natural lipids. Derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of sugars. This palm-free vegetable Glycerin is widely used in cosmetic products and provides the following benefits:

Moisturising: Glycerin has excellent moisturising properties. It attracts and retains moisture from the environment, helping to hydrate the skin and prevent dryness. It forms a protective layer on the skin, reducing water loss and maintaining its natural moisture balance.

Skin barrier repair: Glycerin can support the skin’s barrier function by strengthening the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. This can help improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture and protect it from external irritants.

Soothing and calming: Glycerin has soothing properties that can help alleviate skin irritation, itching, and inflammation. It can be beneficial for conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or dry, sensitive skin.

Anti-ageing effects: Glycerin has the ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. By maintaining skin hydration, it can enhance the skin’s elasticity and firmness, giving it a smoother and more youthful appearance.

Compatibility with various skin types: Glycerin is generally well-tolerated by different skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. It is non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog pores or contribute to breakouts.

Enhances product effectiveness: Glycerin is often used as a key ingredient in skincare formulations because it helps other ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. It can enhance the delivery of active ingredients, allowing them to work more efficiently.

Cooling effect: Glycerin has a cooling effect on the skin, making it useful in products such as facial mists or soothing gels. It can provide relief for hot or sunburned skin.

Links:

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2016, ePublication

British Journal of Dermatology, July 2008, pages 23-34

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 75-82

Proceeding of the National Academy of Sciences, June 2003, pages 7,360-7,365

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8395744/

Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract

Capsicum Frutescens Fruit extract is derived from the plant or the fruit of hot peppers. Capsaicin is a compound that is isolated from the fruit extract of those hot peppers. In skincare products it helps the circulatory system. It can control blood flow and improve circulation. It also strengthens capillaries improving blood flow to the tissues and thus improving the tone of the skin in the lips. It is also has antioxidant properties. When applied to lips an initial mild irritation causes blood to rush to the surface of the skin, which results in a mild and temporary plumping of the lips due to transient swelling.

One study demonstrated that the lip plumping product increased lip volume in almost all patients 15 minutes post- application and showed a continued improvement in lip fullness per investigator assessments 1 hour after application. Tingling or heat sensation were expected and observed as the topical product contained capsaicin, which can induce this sensation by the release of substance.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30235388

Yeast Extract

Ingredient Claims:

Protects the skin from damaging pollutants	Improves skin complexion
Reduces appearance of dark spots	Improves skin texture

Yeast extract is a natural ingredient that is derived from the cells of yeast, a type of fungus. that is also a natural source of antioxidant compounds combined with the ability to soothe skin and improve the skin’s overall complexion.

Here are some of the skincare benefits of yeast extract:

Hydrating: Containing beta glucan, yeast extract has strong water-binding properties that help to retain moisture in the skin, making it an excellent ingredient for hydrating dry or dehydrated skin.

Anti-ageing: Yeast extract contains antioxidants that protect the skin from free radicals, which can cause premature aging. It also contains peptides that stimulate collagen production, which can help to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Brightening: Yeast extract inhibits the production of melanin, making it effective in reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and evening out skin tone.

Soothing: Yeast extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can calm and soothe irritated or sensitive skin. It can also reduce the appearance of redness, inflammation and enhance skin barrier function.

Exfoliating: Yeast extract contains enzymes that gently exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells and leaving the skin smoother and brighter.

Nourishing: Yeast extract contains vitamins and minerals that are beneficial for the skin’s health, such as vitamin B, which can improve skin texture and radiance.

By helping to reduce the amount of oxidative stress that occurs on the skin, the benefits of yeast extract can induce a calming effect that can help soothe and alleviate problematic skin. The health benefits of yeast extract are directly related to its high nutrient content, including antioxidants which are capable of neutralising harmful free-radicals that are present in the environment. This protective mechanism makes it perfect for cosmetics as it not only helps to maintain the skin’s quality and texture, but also allows skin to retain moisture. Yeast also contains a number of beneficial ingredients including proteins, minerals, antioxidants and a variety of vitamins.

Containing beta glucan, yeast extract is highly moisturising that is also a natural source of antioxidant compounds combined with the ability to soothe skin and enhance skin barrier function.

Figure 1: Improved moisturisation compared to base lotion and control.

Link: Data on file

Sources

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ptr.4963

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10188114/

https://bit.ly/2Ph7f7

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ingredient Claims:

Boosts skin hydration	Supports the skin barrier
Promotes wound healing	Protects the skin from environmental damage
Skin feels smoother and tighter	Supports collagen and elastin formation

Link: Data on file

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between the connective fibres known as collagen and elastin. Hyaluronic Acid hydrates and separates the skin, allowing it to retain water and create a plumping effect. Sodium Hyaluronate has been used for moisturisation and wound healing since its discovery in the 1930s. It is comprised of small molecules that penetrate the skin easily and can hold up to 1000 their own weight in water. Because the skin naturally loses its water composition as it ages (going from 10% - 20% water to less than 10%).

Link: Data on file

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate can replace some of the water lost in the dermis, and potentially fight wrinkles and other signs of ageing. Because of its relatively high molecular weight it is not absorbed following application to the skin. Instead, it forms a thin, light, permeable, invisible, viscoelastic surface film. This fixes the moisture on the surface of the skin. The Hyaluronic Acid (HA) film supports the skin’s natural protective mechanism. Since it is an excellent water reservoir leading to a perceptible and visible improvement in skin condition.

Sources

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583886

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Raspberry is one of the colourful berries that’s not only delicious but contains many biologically active, healthy compounds. It has polyphenols including anthocyanins and ellagitannins that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It has antibacterial as well.

Link: J. Agric. Food Chem., 2010, 58 (7), pp 3901–3909, Identification of Flavonoid and Phenolic Antioxidants in Black Currants, Blueberries, Raspberries, Red Currants, and Cranberries

Link: J Agric Food Chem. 2012 Jun 13; 60(23): 5755–5762., Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Polyphenolic-Enriched Red Raspberry Extract in an Antigen Induced Arthritis Rat Model

Tripeptide-29

Tripeptide-29 a highly purified peptide consisting of amino acids glycine and proline, plus amino acid derivative hydroxyproline. Applied to skin, it’s been shown to strengthen the skin’s supportive elements. This improves uneven texture and the look of fine lines and also helps reverse a dehydrated appearance.

Tripeptide 29’s small size allows it to easily penetrate skin’s uppermost layers so it can reach its target areas sooner. The theory behind Tripeptide-29 is the following: Collagen is a long sequence of amino acids and breaking it down produces short amino acid sequences, aka peptides. These peptides “signal” to the skin that collagen was lost and that new collagen should be produced. So putting collagen-fragment-identical peptides on the skin, tricks it into thinking that new collagen is needed thus creating new collagen and strengthening skin making it look younger and smoother.

Link: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.12229

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Ingredient Claims:

Protects the skin from oxidative damage	A natural anti-inflammatory agent that soothes irritated skin and reduces redness
Improves skin tone and brighten complexion	Helps to stimulate collagen production

Ginseng, otherwise known as Panax Ginseng, was discovered in the mountains of Manchuria in China more than 5,000 years ago. By the 3rd century AD, the demand for Ginseng in China was so great that international trade was developed with Korea. Originally used as a food source, references regarding Ginseng’s medicinal uses can be found in writings that date back to the Qin and Han dynasties1 Panax Ginseng Root Extract has been used for its medicinal properties in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.

When it comes to skin benefits, Panax Ginseng Root Extract exhibits several positive skin benefits such as:

Anti-ageing: Ginsenosides, the active compounds found in Panax Ginseng, are known for their anti-aging properties. They help stimulate collagen production, which improves skin elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Anti-inflammatory: Panax Ginseng Root Extract contains natural anti-inflammatory agents that can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

Antioxidant: Ginsenosides are also powerful antioxidants that help protect skin cells from damage caused by free radicals, environmental stressors, and UV radiation.

Moisturising: Panax Ginseng Root Extract is rich in polysaccharides, which help lock in moisture and keep the skin hydrated. This can help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

Brightening: Panax Ginseng Root Extract is believed to have skin-brightening properties. It can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Efficacy Data

Shown in figure 1, Panax Ginseng Root Extractexhibited antioxidant activity comparable to 100μM Trolox (an analogue of Vitamin E). The antioxidant capacity of Panax Ginseng Root Extract & Leuconostoc Radish Ferment Filtrate increased as the concentration increased, as a result we can assure that its ability to minimize oxidative stress is dose dependent. Panax Ginseng Root Extract was designed to provide conditioning and nourishing properties and function as a protectant. This formulation began exhibiting antioxidant activity at a 0.3% concentration. With the present study we can confirm that this unique ingredient is not only capable of providing functional benefits but it is also capable of providing potent antioxidant benefits when added to cosmetic applications.

Links:

Data on file

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35509819/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34520601/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29983620/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29719469/

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)

Ingredient Claims:

Provides intense moisturisation	Improves skin elasticity
Promotes wound healing	Improves skin texture and skin tone
Soothes red, irritated skin	Enhances skin barrier function

Also known as pro-vitamin B5, Panthenol effectively penetrates the skin and provides a number of benefits:

Moisturising: Panthenol is a humectant, which means that it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve the skin’s hydration levels by decreasing trans epidermal water loss and reduces dryness and flakiness.

Soothing: Panthenol has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to calm and soothe irritated or sensitive skin. This makes it useful for people with conditions like eczema, rosacea, or acne.

Healing: Panthenol can help to support the skin’s natural healing process by promoting cell regeneration and tissue repair. This can help to reduce the appearance of scars and improve overall skin health.

Anti-ageing: Panthenol can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the skin’s elasticity and suppleness. It can also help to improve skin texture and tone.

Enhances skin barrier: Panthenol can help to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier function, reducing moisture loss and protecting the skin from external stressors.

Links:

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27545858/

https://www.scinapse.io/papers/3564442

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235

Data on file.