Polish & Prepare

GLYCOLIC EXFOLIATOR

Silica

100% natural exfoliating agent, which promotes a friction action, removing the layers of dead cells and stimulating the renewal of the skin and stratum corneum.

Link: Data on file.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic Acid occurs naturally in sugar cane and has the best track record of all the Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Glycolic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which has an effect on the epidermis by dissolving the bonds of thickened dead skin cells on the surface of the skin causing exfoliation of the upper surface to reveal newer hydrated heathy skin. AHA’s have also been shown to effect the deeper layers of the skin by increasing the gel matrix and creating plumper looking skin, they also reduce pore size and fine lines and wrinkles and can have an effect on reducing the signs of acne prone skin.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26032934

It also has significant effects on the process of keratinization and stratum corneum exfoliation, and has demonstrated anti-aging benefits by increasing synthesis of dermal matrix components including collagen and glycosaminoglycans (e.g., Hyaluronic Acid). Additional beneficial effects on skin include antioxidant effects, skin barrier strengthening and MMP inhibition. It is the most researched AHA and studies show that glycolic acid, demonstrates the most impressive results for all ages and skin types. Glycolic Acid is special because of its small molecule size which enables it to easily penetrate through the top layers of skin and reveal healthier-looking skin. Glycolic Acid also has the ability to hydrate skin and to ‘teach’ skin to retain its natural moisture. When used in concentrations of 5% and upwards, Glycolic Acid can also improve firmness and resilience while lessening other signs of sun damage.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/

Glycolic Acid has also been shown to show an effect on cell proliferation, thus thickening and strengthening the feel and appearance of the skin.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9563274

Studies demonstrated that topical glycolic acid provides a photoprotective effect to pre treated skin yielding an SPF of approximately 2.4. In addition, when Glycolic Acid is applied to irradiated skin, it accelerates resolution of erythema. The data obtained from both studies support the hypothesis that glycolic acid acts as an antioxidant.

Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8634805

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder

Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder (Bamboo Exfoliant) is a solidified silica containing material from bamboo stems (Bambusa arundinacea), milled to yield two cosmetic active compounds: one with particle size 200 μm and the other with particle size 500 μm. This plant product has been developed as a physical exfoliant agent (microdermabrasion) to accelerate skin desquamation and therefore improve skin appearance. It is a natural plant exfoliant with superficial physical action on the skin, which can be applied both on the face and the body.

Link: Data on file.

Lactocbacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate - Pumpango enzyme

Perfect for softening, exfoliating, and smoothing the appearance of fine lines, this pumpango enzyme is ideal for incorporation in exfoliating formulations. The pumpango enzyme is capable of enhancing cellular renewal to provide excellent exfoliating benefits without the common irritation associated with AHA’s or traditional enzymes.

The pumpango enzyme was evaluated for its ability to accelerate cellular renewal by means of a traditional Dansyl Chloride Cell Renewal Study.

12 subjects (M/F) between the ages of 23 and 42 participated in this study. ~0.2 g of 5% Dansyl Chloride (dispersed in petrolatum) was applied on the volar forearms of the volunteers for 12 hours using a nonocclusive patch. According to the results, 5% pumpango enzyme is capable of increasing cell renewal comparably to 4% glycolic acid. It increased the rate of cell renewal by 25% when compared to the untreated control.

Results indicate that 5% of Pumpango Enzymes can accelerate cell renewal and is comparable to the positive control of Glycolic acid.

Link: Data on file.

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract & Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract - Pumpango enzyme

Mango (Magnifera indica) is native to Southern Asia, specifically Burma and eastern India and is considered the “king of fruits” in Ayurvedic medicine Mangos are juicy, yellow-orange fruits rich in vitamins and minerals and high in fiber. The nutrient rich profile of the mango makes the fruit highly sought after for aiding weight loss, helping digestion, and promoting healthy skin.

Papaya (Carica papaya) is native to tropical America spanning the area from southern Mexico to the Andes in South America. Papayas have a high content of antioxidant nutrients such as carotenes, vitamin C, and flavonoids; as well as B vitamins, minerals and fiber. Papaya contains the digestive enzyme papain which, when applied topically, can break down inactive proteins and eliminate dead skin cells to rejuvenate and exfoliate skin.

The Pumpango enzyme provides exfoliation, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and offers a great alternative to alpha hydroxy acids. Sustainably manufactured, the pumpango enzyme is extracted from the unused residual fruit pulp, along with the intact chaperone proteins, which helps increase stability and higher enzyme activity.

Pumpango enzyme may be used in cleansers, facial masks, anti-age creams, anti-acne products, exfoliators, shampoo and conditioner as well as other hair care treatments.

The pumpango enzyme was evaluated for its ability to accelerate cell renewal by means of a traditional skin pigmentation assay protocol. Skin cells are frequently exposed to ultraviolet light damage and other chemical and environmental aggregates. Their death and replacement through cellular renewal processes minimize the potential longer-term harmful effects of these exposures. Aiding in the processes of cellular renewal can improve the skin’s physical appearance as well as function as a protective barrier.

Five volunteers, male and female, between the ages of 20 and 45 and who were known to be free of any skin pathologies participated in this study. The pumpango enzyme was applied to four identified test patches on the volar forearm. The dye was left to develop for 24 hours prior to baseline readings. A fifth skin patch was identified as the skin baseline control and no dye nor treatment were applied to this site. Post dye development and prior to the initial application, baseline pigmentation index readings were taken for all five identified sites.

Approximately 0.2 g of each lotion treatment, 5% glycolic acid positive control, 5% pumpango enzyme, and the base formula were applied to three 2cm x 2cm respective locations on the volar forearm. The fourth test site was left untreated as a dye baseline test site. Readings were taken every 24 hours until the active test site returned to baseline. After each daily reading, treatment of each respective test site was performed following the same parameters listed above.

The pumpango enzyme was able to return the test site to baseline pigmentation readings in three days. The results indicate that the pumpango enzyme is capable of increasing cellular renewal when compared to the untreated skin dye control site. Cellular renewal is beneficial for visibly improving skin tone and texture as well as aiding in the skin’s function as a protective barrier from harmful chemical and environmental exposure that can lead to premature ageing.

As seen in Figure 2, pumpango enzyme had the greatest percent change reduction back to baseline when compared to all other test controls. Pumpango enzyme outperformed the glycolic acid positive control in the induction of cellular renewal and was able to return skin to the untreated baseline pigmentation readings.

Pumpango enzyme induced a 98.5% change in pigmentation over the course of 3 days compared to the glycolic acid positive control which only induced a 95.2% change in pigmentation. It can therefore be concluded that at normal use concentrations, pumpango enzyme contributes to cellular renewal, indicating a healthier, more vibrant skin tone and helping to reverse the signs of ageing