Boost & Brighten Clinical Evidence

Boost & Brighten



L-Ascorbic Acid 20%

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1%

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1%

Tocopherol 0.5%

Ferulic Acid 0.5%

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.2%

L-ascrobic Acid

Vitamin C is proven to be very effective in various skin and personal care applications by delivering many benefits:

Excellent antioxidant by reducing peroxides formation and carbonylated proteins

Boosts collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness

Evens the skin tone and reduces age spots by limiting the production of melanin

Improves the appearance of acne-prone skin

Anti-oxidant and photoprotection

Vitamin C is the anti-stress solution for a daily, non-stop protection.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant as shown by its ability to reduce squalene peroxides and oxidized (carbonylated) proteins in vivo.

It demonstrates synergistic anti-oxidant and anti-pollution activity with Vitamin E. In vivo studies have shown that a mixture of stabilized Vitamin C and Vitamin E can decrease erythema by 50% and sunburn cells up to 75%.1

Another in vivo study has shown that the combination of these 2 vitamins decreased also the inflammation marker of ozone exposure NFkB up to 50%.2

Vitamin C reduces the UV-induced

lipid peroxides up to 40% in vivo.

Reduction of squalene peroxides

20 volunteers. Topical treatment for 7 days prior UV-irradiation twice daily. *p <0.05 vs placebo

Vitamin C reduces protein oxidation by 91% vs placebo in vivo.

Reduction of protein oxidation (carbonylation)3

8 volunteers. 0.5% topical application twice daily for 4 weeks on skin forehead. AA glycoside#: ascorbyl 2-glucoside


Vitamin C displays anti-ageing activities alone or in combination with other vitamins.

Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts and it helps to maintain skin firmness in aged skin

A vitamin complex consisting of Vitamin C and Biotin demonstrates proven benefits in the reduction of wrinkles (-25 μM) as shown in DSM’s in vivo study.

A combination of Vitamin C and Retinol improved fine lines and radiance by 15% in 100% of subjects.4

Vitamin C boosts fibroblast collagen I (+57%) and collagen III (+39%) in vitro.

Collagen production (ratio collagen / total protein)

*p <0.05 vs non treated (NT)

Vitamin C doubles the skin firmness increase in vivo.

Measurement of firmness by customer on inner forearm

20 volunteers. Topical application twice daily for 42 days on inner forearm. *p <0.05 vs placebo

Skin Lightening

Vitamin C has a proven strong lightening effect. Ascorbic acid significantly reduces the melanin.

The following in vivo study provides evidence that Vitamin C significantly brightens the complexion and reduces the intensity of facial age spots.

Quantification of improvement by visual assessment (Dermatological evaluation)

39 female volunteers, 3 months double blind placebo-controlled study. Test cream contained 3% Vitamin C and 1% Vitamin E acetate.

Vitamin C reduced the colour intensity of age spots up to 25% in vivo and visibly evens the skin tone.

Photo Evidence of spot reduction

This efficacy data shows significant and powerful fading of age spots and evening of the skin tone up to 69%.

Link: All data on file.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acne vulgaris is the most common inflammatory skin disorder and jeopardizes seriously the facial impression of a person. Development of acne involves a complex relation among several causes.

Treatment and prevention success can be archived by affecting the main contributors positively like Proprionibacterium acnes or lipid oxidation leading to inflammatory reactions and follicular keratinization. Vitamin C tends to break down in cosmetic formulations resulting in a brownish discoloration.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) represents a stable precursor of vitamin C that ensures a constant delivery of vitamin C into the skin. We were able to show that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial effect with a log reduction of 5 after 8 h on P. acnes in a time-kill study.

Further on in a human in vivo study with 20 subjects an SAP O/W formulation significantly prevents the UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%.

Finally, we performed an open in vivo study with 60 subjects with a 5% SAP lotion over 12 weeks. The efficacy ranked as excellent and good of SAP was 76.9%, which was superior compared with a widely prescribed acne treatment. In conclusion, these data show that SAP is efficient in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. SAP can be used in a non-antibiotic and effective treatment or co-treatment of acne with no side effects, which makes it particularly attractive for cosmetic purposes.


Reduces appearance of acne

SAP can be used as an effective cosmetic ingredient for acne-prone skin.

In vitro, SAP very effectively reduces the bacterial count of Cutibacterium Acnes, the key bacteria for acne.

In the vivo study further illustrates the SAP potential to improve the appearance of skin condition associated with acne and inflammation. Skin impurities and acne are common disorders not only experienced by teenagers but also by adults.

Bacterial Count5

SAP inactivates Cutibacterium Acnes by 5 log in vitro.

SAP inactivates Cutibacterium Acnes by 5 log in vitro.

Photographic edvidence of skin appearance improvement.

26 patients with acne vulgaris. 5% SAP topical application twice daily for 12 weeks. This improcves skin condition of acne vulgaris by 77% in 12 weeks in vivo.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a unique surfactant complex designed to solubilise perfume concentrates, essential oils, vitamins and other oily ingredients. It can be used as a substitute for alcohol in many cosmetic and perfumery products.

Cosmetic Benefits:

Low residue left on the skin after drying due to low level of use: Minimised stickiness

Mild surfactant – can be used for hypoallergenic formulations

Weak odor: does not distort the odor of perfumes

Link: Data on file


Tocopherol or Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use for more than 50 years in dermatology. It is an important ingredient in many cosmetic products. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger.


One of the most well-known and researched antioxidants for the body and for skin. Vitamin E occurs naturally in human skin, but can become depleted due to constant environmental exposure in the absence of sun protection. There are eight basic forms of the entire fat soluble vitamin E molecule, which are either synthetically or naturally derived. The most typical forms are d-alpha-tocopherol, dalphatocopherol acetate, dl-alpha tocopherol, and dlalpha tocopherol acetate. Research has shown that natural forms of vitamin E are more effective than their synthetic counterparts, but both definitely have antioxidant activity. Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use for more than 50 years in dermatology. It is an important ingredient in many cosmetic products. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger. Experimental studies suggest that vitamin E has photoprotective properties and is a powerful antioxidant


Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rich in nutrients such as Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Zinc and Vitamins A, K and E, it’s used effectively against inflammation and general irritations of the skin. Being very high in Vitamin E, it acts as an emollient which traps moisture and keeps skin well hydrated. It also helps prevent damage to cells by ultraviolet light and aids against premature aging of skin by protecting the collagen and elastin content. Helianthus Annuus Seed is a source for beta-carotene which is converted to Vitamin A with benefits of protection from sun damage and free radicals. Omega-6 (Linoleic Acid) which is found in Helianthus Annuus Seed oil, assists with cell development and treating disorders such as eczema, acne and scarring.


Ferulic Acid

Plant-based, phenolic antioxidant that is found in bran, among other plants. Research has shown that it provides antioxidant benefits to skin while enhancing the stability of topical applications of antioxidant vitamins C and E. It also helps defend skin against environmental assault. A combination of 0.5% ferulic acid (a potent antioxidant of plant origin) with 15% Vit. C and 1% Vit. E can increase the efficacy of Vit. C eight-fold. It was noted that this triple combination was very useful for the reduction of acute and chronic photodamage, and could be used for prevention of skin cancer in the future. In skin serums, ferulic acid tends to work well with other antioxidant ingredients, especially vitamin C Ferulic acid is thought to help stabilize vitamin C while also increasing its photoprotection. Photoprotection refers to something’s ability to minimize sun damage.

A 2005 study suggests that ferulic acid has the potential to offer twice the amount of photoprotection when combined with vitamins C and E. The study’s authors also note that such antioxidant combinations could reduce someone’s risk of future photoaging and, possibly, skin cancer. But these effects aren’t fully understood yet.



Ferulic acid is a new multifunctional cosmeceutical ingredient with antioxidant and UV radiation (UVR)– protective qualities that was originally isolated in 1866 from the Ferula foetida plant.

Ferulic acid is a phenolic derivativeof plant cell walls and is found in lignocellulose, a substance that crosslinks lignin and polysaccharides, conferring rigidity to plant cell walls.

The photoprotective effect of ferulic acid in pigmentated skin.

C+E+Ferulic Acid is a solution containing 15% L-ascorbic acid, 1% a-tocopherol, and 0.5% Ferulic Acid.

Link: Data on file